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All About RELAXERS

This month I'd like to spend some time talking about relaxers. Bone straight hair is out, went out with "don't use grease in your hair!"   The best way to maintain relaxed tresses is to apply a conditioning hairdress. Most conditioning hair dresses are either water-, oil- or silicone-based.  Good rule of thumb:  for fine hair use silicone-based, for medium hair use oil-based and for course hair; use water-based.  These rules vary when you add texture and density.  For example, clients who prefer not to have oil based hairdress applied to their hair regardless of hair type are candidates for silicone based products.


Silicones come in either liquid or solid.  Oil-based products serve to lubricate the hair using paraffin and other products that breakdown easily with body temperature and are water soluble. Water-based products are used when softness is desired on hair that is considered wiry or brittle.  All of these products serve to maintain and prepare the hair for combing, brushing and thermal styling.  Have your stylist determine the density, texture and condition of your hair and recommend the products that are best suited for you.


On the conditioner side of things you need to have your relaxed hair conditioned with moisturizing and strengthening conditioners.  We always have to put back what we take out.  Don't forget, based on the condition of your hair you should be receiving no less than two hair repair treatments a year.  We recommend the first in June and the second in December.  Your hair will only be as good to you as you are to your hair.  Proper relaxing should take place every 4 to 6 weeks for the average hair texture based on manufacturer's recommendation.  This industry standard prevents unnecessary damage between relaxed ends and natural new growth.  There are a few exceptions to this rule and you should consult with your hair care specialist for that information.


Relaxers come in three strengths; mild, normal and resistant. There are two basic types, sodium hydroxide and guanidine (no-lye). These relaxers have separate characteristics.  Sodium is recommended for fine color-treated, normal and resistant hair.  No-lye has been specially formulated for for all hair types and clients with sensitive scalps.  Our professional preference is Avlon's Affirm Conditioning Relaxer System.  Mild relaxers, if done properly, can work successfully with all hair textures and scalps.  If you are a permanent color client we do not recommend the use of no-lye relaxers as the are man made and tend to be more drying to the hair.  We recommend sodium base relaxers for most clients.  If you have an extremely sensitive scalp the application of Affirms Gentle Assurance before and during relaxer will insure the clients comfort through the entire chemical service.  When it is time for a relaxer there should be no combing from the scalp, clients should only comb the relaxed ends and not the new growth. This tip will help to prevent breakage.  The best hair integrity can be achieved by using a protein re-constuctor before or after a relaxer service.  Protein is used on hair that is damaged or hair that is chemically treated to maintain strength.


Hair should be trimmed every 4 to 6 weeks, this helps to curb the split ends.  Clients in need of chemical services need to seek a consultation from a licensed professional.  If you are not satisfied with the consultation, your probably not going to be satisfied with the service.  These products and services are for professional use only and should not be attempted at home.


Happy Hair!
G'Marie

 
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